Stay And Tour
The West Cork Town Of Macroom
‘Ne’er a fool was reared in Macroom’, so the local saying goes! It’s true the people of this historic West Cork town, which lies on the main Cork Killarney road, are resilient, bright, and astute. Colourful little shops in the town centre are independently owned. You won’t see a big name fast food outlet or department store among the traditional shop fronts which make up the main street. You may see some Irish names above the doors, as Macroom borders the Irish-speaking area of the Gaeltacht in this region. You’ll find great sportsmen here that have learned their skills at club level in Macroom GAA and gone on to do County Cork football proud. Macroom is a town of diversity and tradition all rolled into one. Sit up at the bar in one of the cosy old pubs of the town and you’ll get all the lowdown on sport and other local gossips!
WHERE TO STAY IN MACROOM
In the heart of the town stands The Castle Hotel, a longstanding family hotel owned by the Buckleys for 65 years. That reputation for local service from an experienced hotelier family shines through in every aspect here. Good food and warm West Cork hospitality go hand in hand, alongside superb accommodation facilities if you’re making a few nights of it.
You can enjoy dinner in B’s Restaurant, the main dining room of the hotel, or grab a few drinks and casual bar food in Dan Buckley’s Bar. Next door Cafe, a continental-style café offers an all-day service of good tea and coffee plus breakfast and lunch options and light refreshments throughout the day. You’ll be spoiled for choice.
Room choices at the castle include a selection of Standard, Superior, and Executive Rooms plus a Deluxe Suite, Contemporary Double Room, and Family Room. You’ll awake to feel refreshed and ready to explore after a hearty Full Irish Breakfast with local black and white puddings, bacon, fresh eggs, and homemade brown bread!
MACROOM IN THE PAST
Macroom has a historic past. In clan times of the 13th Century, it was the stronghold of the O’Flynn’s, Lords of Muskerry. Macroom Castle was said to have been built after the Anglo-Norman invasion of 1169, probably constructed in the reign of King John in 1199-1209. Possible occupants over the years include the Carews and McCarthy’s. The Castle was also the boyhood home of William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania in the USA. He grew up here after the castle was given to his father Admiral William Penn by Oliver Cromwell.
Not much remains of the original castle, just a gateway, and tower to the rear of the modern castle construction which dominates the town today. The original building was burnt for the fourth time during the Irish War of Independence of 1919-1922, after which its remains were eventually given as a gift to the people of Macroom by Lady Ardilaun. It’s worth going into the peaceful gardens to the rear of the castle, where the River Sullane makes its quiet way down from the Cork and Kerry mountains and through the town. A great salmon river, this crosses with the mighty River Lee which traverses on to Cork city.
MARKET TOWN VIBES
Macroom was always a lively market town. A sculpture of a magnificent bull stands at the entrance to the town if you’re arriving from Cork, marking the fact that livestock was traded here for centuries. There’s still a weekly mart in Macroom where local farmers buy and sell their livestock. Every Tuesday, a farmer’s market of local growers and artisans takes place in the town square. It’s a lively day with lots of buzz as people browse, taste and shop. Some of Cork’s well-known producers arrive here with their wares.
Pick up some local goodies for a picnic or as gifts for back home. Macroom also has a traditional weekly indoor Country Market, with independent local growers and suppliers selling homemade preserves, homegrown veggies, fresh free-range hens and duck eggs, flower arrangements, garden plants, crafts, and much more. Country Markets were founded in 1946 by the Irish Homespun Society and the Irish Countrywoman’s Association. You’ll find some gems among the stalls, which still maintain that ‘homespun’ feel.
WHAT TO SEE AROUND MACROOM
BEALICK MILL
Bealick Mill is a historic 19th Century corn mill on the banks of the River Sullane just outside Macroom, going towards Cork city. The name of this site in Irish is ‘Bealach Leachta’, an ancient route said to have been used by the saints. Also the site of the brutal Battle of Bealach Leachta in 978AD, where legendary High King of Ireland Brian Boru reigned victorious over mixed forces in a bloody atrocity costing hundreds of lives. Leach Mahon standing stones adjacent to the mill commemorate this battle.
Nowadays, Bealick Mill is a Famine and Heritage Centre and working mill, open to the public daily 10-5 pm and Sundays 2-6 pm, April to Sept.
THE GEARAGH
The name of The Gearagh in Irish is ‘An Gaoire’ meaning ‘wooded river’. This ancient post-glacial alluvial forest is located on a channel where the River Lee becomes an alluvial plain, formed at the end of the last Ice Age. Small streams interweave through a native forest of Hazels, Alders, Oak, Birch, Whitethorn, and Ash trees. In the shade, the streams flow freely and are free from plants. But in open spots where sunlight hits, they are a mass of vegetation and life.
Legends from The Gearagh include the phenomenon of ‘Meascán Maraíocht’, referring to the naughty spirits thought to live here, which would confuse and lead visitors astray. This term came into great use during the times when Poitin was made illegally in The Gearagh, as the local constabulary could see the smoke rising from the stills but always got lost trying to locate them! Many experienced people who have walked in The Gearagh have suffered from the phenomenon!
This is a magical place for wildlife, but not so easy for humans to navigate. The Gearagh is a Special Area of Conservation particularly rich in birdlife, home to many migratory and resident birds, otters, bats, lizards, eels, and small river fish. The safest and easiest access for walkers is across the central causeway when water levels are low. Particularly good in winter as the views and birdlife are more exposed. There is no public access to the dense woods of The Gearagh, because of the deep streams and many hazards within. However, a stroll along the road away from Macroom and up to Toon Bridge gives good glimpses of this ancient forest system. When you get to the village of Toons Bridge, on the River Toon which flows through The Gearagh, call into Toons Bridge Dairy and Café, to sample the Italian style cheeses made here on-site with local milk at the dairy next door, then taste the home cooking and baking of owner Jenny Rose Clarke. A divine rural spot to refresh yourself after your walk!
Just off the main road from Macroom to Cork, the flooded Gearagh takes on an eery Armageddon-style landscape. In the 1950s this area of forest was flooded by the ESB to make reservoir lakes as part of the Hydro-Electricity scheme of the time. Ancient trees were felled and homes and communities were lost. When water levels are low, you’ll see the rotted stumps of the mighty oaks that once thrived here. It’s also still possible to see roads that lead directly into the water and a bridge that stands in the middle of the lake on the other side of the main Macroom Cork road, giving an indication of the communities who once lived here. For many years it was thought that irreversible damage had been done to the area. But the good news is that from the pocket of natural woodland that remained, this part of The Gearagh is now regenerating itself, with active co-operation from the ESB and Wildlife Service.
GOUGANE BARRA
Gougane Barra is just 35 minutes drive from Macroom Town. Here in this valley carved by glacial melting after the Ice Age is where St.Finbarr, the patron saint of Cork, arrived in the 6th Century to reflect on the powerful works of God. Finbarr is said to have believed that the lake was God’s Mirror. On a calm day it’s easy to see why, as the reflections of the clouds, the impressive mountains and forests are clearly portrayed in the glassy waters. On his arrival, Finbarr is said to have banished the mighty serpent Lu from the lake at Gougane Barra.
As Lu slithered away, he carved the deep groove which now forms the bed of the River Lee, which rises in the mountains above Gougane Barra lake and flows all the way to Cork City. Folklore and tales abound around here!
Gougane Barra is a must-see for visitors. The calm waters of the lake surrounded by mountains rounded from glacial melting, the holy cells and stone walls built in the 1700s by Father Denis O’Mahony who is buried here, and beautiful St.Finbarr’s Oratory, the tiny church on the island in the lake with its resident swans all lend the feeling of deep spirituality and remoteness from the real world. Gougane Barra is a place of pilgrimage and a spot for those seeking a little piece of quiet in a busy modern world. It’s also a popular place for weddings, as the stunning scenery provides a breathtaking backdrop. The Castle Hotel specializes in weddings at Gougane Barra, with reception and accommodation back at the hotel. Call the hotel’s Wedding Co-Ordinator directly for more details.
THE MUSCRAÍ GAELTACHT
If you want to hear Irish spoken as an everyday language in shops and businesses, visit the Muscraí Gaeltacht region close to Macroom. This is one of the few Irish-speaking areas remaining in the country. It includes the pretty villages of Baile Bhúirne (Ballyvourney), Baile Mhic Íre (Ballymakeera) and Cúil Áodha (Coolea) on the River Sullane, Beál Átha ‘n Ghaorthaidh (Ballingeary) and Guagán Barra (Gougane Barra) on the River Lee and Reidh na nDoirí (Renaniree) and Cill na Martra (Kilnamartra) on the ridge that forms a watershed between two valleys.
Passing through any of these villages you will see place names in Irish and hear the Mother Tongue spoken as you go. Of course, English is spoken too, so you won’t be stuck for communication. But you may learn a Cúpla Focal (a few words) in Irish yourself!
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