FISH WITH A DIFFERENCE


Arbutus – in Cork it means great artisan breads from Declan Ryan’s Arbutus Bakery. But in Kerry it has quite another meaning. The Arbutus is a tree – native to warm regions like the Mediterranean, Western Europe and North America. There’s obviously one in Killarney – or possibly several. Because Head Chef Odran Lucy of The Killarney Park Hotel in Killarney uses it  in a fish recipe dating back to the 1800’s. His particular recipe has strong links to Killarney so we can only imagine the Arbutus tree grows there very well indeed. The Arbutus tree has red peeling bark and berries you can eat. Some call it the Strawberry Tree, so named because the berries look similar to strawberries. Perhaps this is where Evan Doyle of Brooklodge Hotel in Co. Wicklow got the name of his organic restaurant The Strawberry Tree, which started originally in Kerry.  We have very clever chefs in the Good Food Ireland network!  But we digress.Back to the fish with the Arbutus. First find your tree! Then you need some Arbutus twigs – a few inches long with a few leaves on the end.  Follow those with eight portions of fresh Irish salmon fillet.  If you aren’t lucky enough to find Arbutus for this recipe, we suggest you use fresh rosemary twigs instead. They are woody and sturdy enough to go through the salmon flesh. Odran’s Baked Salmon on Arbutus with Wild Garlic Cockle Vinaigrette has a dressing of wild garlic,  fresh tomatoes and cooked cockles spooned over the hot salmon,  straight from the oven. A very unusual and tasty combo, we might add. Check out our Recipes section for the full low down on how it’s done. Good Friday is a’comin’…make this your fish recipe for the day when you are not supposed to eat meat. Trees are allowed though…